As we penetrate the south, the pace of our travels has slowed to mirror the relaxed mentality of the region.  We allow ourselves to laze in bed in the mornings and while away afternoons strolling with Linus alongside the Mississippi.

Yesterday found us in historic Port Cape Girardeau, Missouri, where last night we feasted on alligator tails and some of the thickest fried catfish I’ve ever encountered.  Linus relishes in his role as the world’s most effective people-magnet, a traveling-perk the likes of I’ve never enjoyed before.  It’s been a surprisingly effective way to meet locals and get recommendations for places to dine and stay for the night.  Last night we learned about a local Cajun joint, where an 18-wheel rig driver informed us, “in alla mah drivin over the whole south, I aint never had none better.”  Apparently the Chef was displaced after his restaurant flooded during Katrina, and afterwards headed north up the Mississippi, landing in Cape Girardeau.  The food was flavorful, the place a little smokey, and live blues were stomping.  The perfect rejuvenation for two weary travelers from Iowa City.

While people are fawning over Linus and chatting to us, they inevitably realize we are from, as everyone puts it “outta state,” we’re subject to intense curiosity, frequent raised eyebrows, and the occasional sales pitch, from everything from a tow-trailer for my Jeep to pot to unidentified items “that could spice up yer night, I got em right here in mah pocket.”  Thus far, I’ve politely declined all offers. :)

Today finds us taking siesta here in Blytheville, Arkansas as we pause to get the oil changed on the Jeep.  We have driven over 1500 miles since leaving Manhattan.  The Jeep, while undoubtably a worthy steed, still could use a little TLC as we expect him to carry us another threefold as our journey continues through the south then turns north to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Nevada and finally home to San Fransisco.

Soon we depart for Memphis for two nights of hunting for more Blues and Barbecue.  I’m a little frustrated as I have yet to find a dog-friendly bed and breakfast in Memphis.  To be honest it’s been the hardest time I’ve had finding lodging on the trip.  All of the dog-friendly accommodations seem to be way far off Beale Street and away from downtown and also of the dive-ier variety.  Perhaps I’m still a little crestfallen from our four-legged travel companion getting us rejected from The Peabody.  Regardless, we’re still going to go and watch those ducks march from the roof, across the red carpet in the lobby, and plop into the fountain in the front!  Linus most likely will not accompany us for that particular activity as one of his favorite pastime is chasing ducks and seagulls.